By Linda Johansen

Special to the Santa Ynez Valley Star

From Sept. 11-24, 2025, a group of local friends traveled to South America with Linda Johansen and Collette Tours. The “Essence of South America including Chile, Argentina, Uruguay, and Brazil featuring one of the 7th Wonders of the World” at Iguazu Falls was an incredible trip in all regards. The tour company provides our “hometown” pickup, which makes it all so easy to enjoy, especially with libations and warm pastries on the bus, followed by lots of laughter to set the mood and tempo for the trip.

We flew via Miami on American Airlines with a total of 12 hours of flying time to arrive in Santiago, which is the cultural hub of Chile. Santiago is nestled in the valley of the snow-capped beautiful Andes mountain range. The city is a blend of modern and colonial architecture and is rich in history.

We visited the Chilean Museum of Pre Columbian Art, which is dedicated to the study and display of pre-Columbian artworks and artifacts from Central and South America.  We were completely enthralled with the display of such beautiful artwork that our local guide explained in detail to us.

Following the museum, we went to the Mercado Central de Santiago and were joined by a local chef. We walked through the fish market, stopping along the way to learn about the local seafood and to pick up some ingredients. We then all participated in a hands-on cooking experience at the chef’s restaurant and thoroughly enjoyed all the fresh foods and lunch that we helped to prepare.

After two nights in Santiago, we flew to Mendoza, Argentina, on an early flight arriving in the desert region of Mendoza known for its vineyards and Malbec wine and the stunning views of the Andes Mountains. Upon arriving at the vineyard, we were greeted with a pick-me-up taste of yerba mate tea, a traditional South American caffeinated drink. Our guide demonstrated how to make a cup, and explained the cultural significance of the beverage that brings many Argentinean families together for their daily “mate breaks.” After our “mate break,” we enjoyed a tour of the vineyard followed by wine tasting and lunch prepared by a private chef that was absolutely delicious.  

The following morning, we visited the region’s renowned wines with a visit to a family winery. Wines were selected to show the richness of the terroirs and how to appreciate the unique qualities of the Lujan de Cuyo wine-producing sub-region with its dry, almost desert-like climate with irrigation from the Mendoza River’s pure Andean meltwater.

Mendoza is a city in western Argentina. It is the capital of the Mendoza Province and is known for its wine production. Mendoza is surrounded by mountains, making it a popular destination for adventure seekers.

The next morning, we flew to Buenos Aires for four nights and we were all elated in that there was no treacherous bus ride over the Andes. Buenos Aires is fabulous with so much history and it radiates Latin-infused rhythm mixed with European heritage. We enjoyed a guided tour of Buenos Aires, sampling the local eats and exploring the fusion of flavors that comes with the city’s Spanish, Italian, and Jewish influences. Our panoramic tour included the San Telmo, Puerto Madero, La Boca, and Recoleta neighborhoods. We then settled into the elegant Recoleta neighborhood at the beautiful Palladio Sofitel Hotel. The area is full of historical and architectural charm.

The day began with an impact moment focused on the work of the Abuelas de Plaza de Mayo, a human rights organization that has helped to restore the identities of children taken during Argentina’s military coup from 1976 to 1983. We met a child whose mother and father were young students at the university. The mother was abducted by the military from school when her son was just 10 days old. The father took the son to the country so he wouldn’t be taken as well, and they both were sequestered by family trying to save them.

The son explained to us that his mother’s remains had recently been found in Bueno Aires in a mass grave.  They were able to identify her remains, and she had been shot eight times within about a week of her kidnapping by the government. The military was also kidnapping young children and babies and placing them with military families during this time. So anyone that disagreed with any government decision or spoke out in a negative way about the government during that time was taken away and killed, said to be a total of 30,000 people. They are just now finding mass graves in and around Buenos Aires.

Every Thursday, grandmothers and older mothers march in silent protest in the plaza called the Abuelas de Plaza de Mayo with a diaper wrapped around their head to symbolize the babies that were taken away and given to the military families. Some of these children have now been found as adults by an organization that is trying to relocate and reunite children taken from their parents and placed with military families. Many have been identified now. Paintings of diapers in a large circle on the tiles of the plaza symbolize the children taken, and the Abuelos march in silent protest every Thursday still.

While in Buenos Aires, we visited the Recoleta Cemetery, which has beautiful old and historical large mausoleums for above-ground burial that is more for the privileged. Eva Peron, the legendary “Evita,” is buried there. We also visited the Palermo neighborhood with their colorful murals, all painted by local artists on an ongoing basis.

Our group all enjoyed our full-day excursion to Uruguay via an hour-long ferry ride across the Rio de Plata to Colonia del Sacramento. We traveled into the countryside to a family-run cheese farm. We enjoyed our tour of the farm and their homemade cheeses with a fabulous gourmet lunch and local wines. The owner joined us for part of the day as well. Upon our return to Buenos Aires early that evening, we enjoyed an amazing dinner with a beautiful tango show by professionals. We witnessed some stunning dance and acrobatic moves, which was impressive, as well some of us taking two hours of tango lessons which proved to be very challenging.

Our next cultural experience was in the countryside to explore Argentina’s Pampas region in San Antonio de Areco, which is know for the gaucho culture. We spent most of the day at a traditional Estancia, which happened to be the same one that I had been at years earlier with a dear girlfriend. The beautiful sprawling ranch land and rustic house was exactly the same, but they had added some other amenities to the property with a large public room for groups that was a bit crowded due to the torrential rain that day.

We all braved a beautiful carriage ride around the property in the pouring rain and gathered for the traditional lunch with flame-cooked meats and wine. All the outdoor cultural activities were canceled due to the increment weather, so the ping-pong table at the center proved quite popular with some great players.  On my previous trip, we actually rode horses around the estancia with a gaucho followed by the same locally oriented folklore show with gaucho horsemanship we should have seen., but couldn’t due to the weather.

We arrived back in Buenos Aires later just in time for dinner. It was an early night as we all had to repack and organize luggage that night for our early morning flights to Iguazu Falls, Brazil. Intra-country travel always has different and more strict weight limitations for flights, which always prove to be very tricky. That hotel allowed us to store our luggage not traveling with us for two nights, and we had to pack a 22-pound bag for carry on for two nights and three days. That is not an easy task by any means, but we all managed to do it.

I added Brazil and Iguazu Falls onto our Collette tour. It is right there, and one of the 7 Wonders of the World, and really not to be missed. It is stunning and even though that was my second visit there, it moved me just as much if not more this trip. It seems that the older I get, I appreciate things more and things seem more important to me. The falls is huge and breathtaking. The words of Eleanor Roosevelt are all over the place in their promotional materials because she exclaimed “My Poor Niagara” upon seeing the Iguazu Falls. The falls, which border Argentina and Brazil, are majestic, overpowering, and consist of over 275 waterfalls.

There are long walkways with beautiful viewing locations for pictures in both countries. There are notable differences between the Iguazu and Niagara: Iguazu Falls has just under 2 million visitors a year, while Niagara has 12 million; Iguazu Falls’ longest drop is 80 meters at Devil’s Throat while Niagara’s is only 62 meters. Iguazu Falls has over 275 waterfalls, while Niagara has only four and Iguazu Falls is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, while Niagara Falls is not.

It is well worth the effort to get to Iguazu Falls, even with its very difficult visa service. Thank goodness for Manny Valdes, who helped many of us with the process. The Rainforest Ecological train in the national park is fun and the jet boat up the river and dunking under the falls is a real adventure and thrill ride. Three of us took the front seat and were soaked in spite of all the rain gear they give you to stay dry. They compare Iguazu Falls to Victoria Falls, which is in Zimbabwe and Zambia, Africa, and I feel so privileged as I have been to all three of these incredible falls and countries several times. Life is good!

Our last day in Buenos Aires was a blur as we tried to fit everything in. We went to the Opera House, which was stunning, and the Crypt Mausoleum,or Catacombs, which is an underground museum — also fascinating. The owner. upon hearing that we were from California, came out to meet us and talk to my group.

Jorge Eckstein, called “Don Jorge” by his loving staff, bought the two-story villa to remodel it into a restaurant in 1985. He had to buy the property without ever seeing the inside. After the sale was final, they had to put a ladder up to the second-story balcony and go in one of the bedroom patio doors as there was no key to the villa ever found. What they found is the city’s most important archaeological site, a portal to an underground labyrinth with caverns and tunnels leading everywhere. The soon realized the value of this important historical find.

The restaurant idea was scrapped and Mr. Eckstein started renovating in 1985 and continues to this day because of the profound historical value of the site. It is a museum and also used as an event center with the artifacts and beautiful historical pieces that have been unearthed. It was so interesting and we had a lovely visit from Mr. Eckstein.

When he asked where we were from, we all said Solvang. He promptly told us he had been to Solvang many times as he goes to Santa Barbara a few times a year. His son, Dr. Miguel Eckstein, is a psychological and brain science professor at UCSB and works in neuroscience. Dr. Eckstein’s bio is very impressive with over 200 publications of his work and numerous fellowships and awards. He is highly credentialed and has degrees from Berkley and UCLA as well as doing research at Cedars Sinai and NASA before coming to UCSB.

I will be reaching out to both Don Jorge as well as his son and hope to meet them on his next visit to Santa Barbara and Solvang. This is the BONUS of travel, meeting such amazing people along the way! It’s a small world really, and this type of thing happens often in my travels.

The Collette Essence of South America tour proved to be yet another adventurous and beautiful trip for all of us. We leave the countries behind, but relive the adventures every time we tell the stories of all the fun we have had. Looking back at all of your pictures brings each and every moment back to you in full detail. Travel affords the best education for you as you learn about each culture and country. We are so diverse, yet so similar in so many ways. I marvel at the spirit of joy you find, even in the poorest of countries. The resilience of the people and the kindness of most people to help one another truly is inspiring and beautiful to witness.

Again, rounding the coast on Highway 101 on our chartered bus we always exclaim “there is no place like home,” and we all sincerely mean that even though the trip was magical in so many ways and we had the very best time. Coming home feels so good and sleeping in your own bed at last is the greatest!

The commission from this trip was donated to the SY Aquatics Foundation and Olive Crest. Our trip in February to Singapore, Thailand, and Cambodia will be dedicated to People Helping People and new trips that are available to book will be to Iceland with a stopover on the return in New York in September 2026, and India and Nepal in February of 2027, a fall trip for 2027 is undecided at this time.  Email for details and reservations to Linda Johansen at: lindyjo2003@yahoo.com. Buellton Recreation will be sending out the two new listed trips shortly. There are only 24 seats for Iceland and 17 for India.

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EDITOR’S NOTE: This is the uncut version of the story. A condensed version of this story can be found in the March 18 print issue of the Santa Ynez Valley Star.

Linda Johansen was no sooner home from one of her trips to far-off lands than she was off again to Costa Rica with another intrepid group of adventurers from the Santa Ynez Valley. Their journey was replete with a jungle hike, an encounter with an iguana, monkeys, and alligators, whitewater rafting, traversing suspended bridges, zip lining through the jungle, torrential rain, and a soggy nature cruise … a journey not for the faint of heart. 

Johansen will combine her commission from the Costa Rica trip with the March Mediterranean trip to give largerdonations to the Santa Ynez Aquatics organization as well as the Olive Crest Hope Refuge, which aids in the recovery of young sex-trafficked victims from Santa Barbara County. 

“There is a saying, that ‘nature feeds the soul’ and that is so true of Costa Rica. Our adventurous trip started from the earliest bus charter ever, at 2 a.m. the morning of Jan. 17, which happened to be the day after my 76th birthday, which seems almost impossible to believe,” said Johansen. “We attacked and conquered Costa Rica from Jan. 17 to Jan. 29 with one exhilarating adventure after another. The local saying ‘Pura Vida,’ which translates into ‘the simple life,’ is far from the truth as there is nothing simple about some of these amazing adventures and challenges we all faced and conquered with joy, laughter, and so much love as we cheered each other on.”

Johansen’s clients ranged in age from the 40s to over 80, and she said they all embraced each adventure with new-found confidence and exuberance, giving her heart attack symptoms daily. 

“What a wild ride of adventure we all had from torrential rains in the cloud and rain forests, to hiking in the jungles near Arenal and the volcanos and crossing eight suspended bridges in the tree canopy gasping in wonder at all of the beautiful flora, fauna, and animals we saw,” she said. “It was breathtaking, and a very steep hike up the mountainside to get there, but it was well worth the effort!” 

“Costa Rica is the birthplace of zip lining, and boy did we zip through the tree canopies and jungle at break-neck speed,” Johansen continued. “There were eight challenging zip stations that had long and fast runs through tunnels in the jungle foliage. We all experienced ‘coming in hot’ meaning way too fast, but you could barely get the words or scream out before the run concluded! It was incredible that the oldest people on the trip did all of these adventurous activities and had such fun. When I grow up I want to be just like them — but then again, I think I am already right there with them. 

“My point here is that age is irrelevant if your mind and body will cooperate. Some might say we are crazy or experiencing a bit of dementia, but I say, ‘Well done people and thank you for sharing these wonderful adventures with me. I think you are all awesome.’”

The group stayed three nights in Tortuguero National Park which took them almost two hours to reach by boat through the jungle waterways. 

“The Evergreen Lodge was an incredible experience in the jungle and nature,” Johansen said. “We saw amazing wildlife, with slow-moving sloths, abundant in the trees, green and scarlet macaw, vibrant and beautiful species of so many birds including the Toucan distinguished by their long colorful beak.”

Johansen said that her group never saw any jaguars, but through conservation efforts, they have brought them back in great numbers, which was wonderful to hear. However, they did see huge crocodiles floating near the river banks, as well as caiman belonging to a subfamily of reptiles that are related to alligators. There were manatees in the rivers, but we never were able to see one, which is probably a good thing, since swimming with the manatee is still on her bucket list.

“We did visit the Sea Turtle Research Station and learned about the endangered green sea turtle and that they are working tirelessly to increase their numbers by identifying the nesting sites and monitoring and guarding them during hatching,” Johansen said. “Green sea turtles can lay 80-200 eggs at a time and few make it to maturity, but in the wild, they can live up to 90 years which is incredible. Costa Rica is very environmentally engaged, guarding all of their natural resources, which is remarkable for their country and for all of us who want to visit.”

Johansen explained that Costa Rica is a small country with coastlines on both the Pacific Ocean and the Caribbean side. While the country is compact, it takes several hours to drive between the two coasts. The Pacific side is known for its stunning white-sand beaches, vibrant surf towns, and diverse ecosystems. The Caribbean coast offers a different vibe with lush clouds and rainforests, vibrant culture, and unique wildlife. The Caribbean coast gets a lot more rain as well. Fortunately, Costa Rica is leading the way in many environmental areas, so these beautiful natural areas should be preserved for future generations to enjoy.  

“We visited a cacao plantation in the Tirimbina Rainforest and learned all about the cacao bean and chocolate, ‘the food of the gods’ as legend has it,” Johansen continued. “We floated down the Penas Blancas River on a river safari and had lunch with a local generational family. We heard about their life, customs, and shared stories. The food was grown on their property and lovingly prepared, just for us, by two sisters who had never married and were very old. They greeted us with toothless smiles, but warm hugs. I loved them and we took our picture all together.

“They are happy with relatively nothing, dirt floors, spotless and hard-packed from constant sweeping, so even though the floors are dirt, you never see any loose dirt. They did have a wood-burning stove and they slept in hammocks, not beds, and still had out all of their holiday decorations including the Christmas tree at the top of the wooden stairs in the designated sleeping area. We learned that the custom is to not take down all of the holiday decorations until they have one last family gathering when they all agree, the decorations can come down.  It was almost a month after Christmas when we were there and they said they had no date for a family gathering yet. They live a very simple happy life, livingoff their land along a beautiful river, very lush green and tropical.”

After all of the activities of the week, many of the travelers had spa treatments to work out their kinks while at the Hotel Lomas del Volcan.

“What an exquisite room for massages, a patio-like setting in the jungle, open to the elements, with soft raindrops lulling you to sleep. What a great way to start winding down our trip with only two nights left on the Pacific Coast at the Los Suenos Marriott located on the beach with a marina and golf course,” Johansen added. 

“The hotel was beautiful with a massive pool with a lazy river flowing through the pool area.  It was an amazing resort, but it was a lot more humid and very hot compared to the Caribbean coast. We all enjoyed playing LRC there at $3 per game as well as a new card game called Golf and Five Crowns.”

Their last night was once again spent in San Jose, which is the largest city and the capital of Costa Rica.

“We stayed the first night of our arrival and the last night of the trip at the wonderful Double Tree Cariari Hotel,” Johansen said. “It is a very nice hotel with a beautiful large bar area for games and drinks. Our last dinner celebration together is always spent thanking our guide in our ‘Danish’ custom and fashion with heartfelt words of praise and thanks, and singing our Danish Skal song to them. Our guide Marta loved our Skal song, all the words and card of thanks and the envelope filled with tips from the group.”

Before the excursion ended, the group had an encounter that proved the adage “it’s a small world.”

“As we were all finishing our farewell dinner and program I heard a familiar voice yelling out to me and some of my other guests,” Johansen said. “Lo and behold, heading directly to our table were good friends Mark and Robyn Massie, who lived in the Valley many years before moving out of state within the last two years. They actually knew five people at the table extremely well.  What a wonderful ending to an amazing and adventurous trip to Costa Rica. Seeing our friends from Solvang gave us the urge to get back home to our way of life in Solvang, our family, and our friends. There truly is no place like home!”

Future trips available are to South America in September of 2025, and Thailand and Siem Reap Cambodia in February of 2026.  For more information, email Johansen at lindyjo2003@yahoo.com.

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Valley denizen Linda Johansen recently returned from one of her many travel adventures with a group of Valley residents exploring the flavors of Portugal and Spain on a tour with Collette, a family-owned travel company that offers worldwide adventures and programs. 

Collette offers small exploration tours with a maximum of 24 passengers, which is a more intimate way to travel with your friends and neighbors and offers unique opportunities and adventures on every trip, “making memories that will last a lifetime.” Johansen donates her commission from these travel adventures to various local and non-local nonprofits.

“Our journey was from Sept. 29 to Oct. 14 and was filled with breathtaking UNESCO sites, delicious food and wines, amazing local culture, and lots of fun and adventure traveling through Northern Portugal first and then ending up in Northern Spain in the Basque region,” said Johansen.

“We flew into Lisbon, or Lisboa as the locals refer to it, which is the capital of Portugal, and the next morning set out on a walking and tasting tour of many of the historic neighborhoods and the Praca do Comercio, which is a harbor-facing plaza and one of the biggest squares in all of Europe,” she explained. “We saw the Tower of Belem, which is a UNESCO site and a fortress remaining along the Tagus River, which is also home to the world’s leading pancreatic cancer research institute and hospital. There was lots of activity along the Tagus riverfront and trams or funiculars to get you up the steep hills for more adventures with fabulous cafes and restaurants along the winding hillside.

“We visited Ericeira, a little seaside town and Portuguese fishing village not far from Lisbon that was charming. It is a surfing Mecca and has lovely sandy beaches and is known for its fresh seafood. The weather wasn’t cooperating the day we were there with fog and a very mild misty rain, but it was charming and a place I would be sure to incorporate in my travel plans.”

And there was one more Lisbon-area location that warranted a visit.

“We had additional time to explore the fairy tale and historic village of Sintra and the magical Monserrate Palace and Gardens,” Johansen said. “The gardens were gorgeous as well but a bit challenging to navigate the steep paths, walkways, and bridges in your attempt to finally reach the Palace. What an extraordinary place of beauty in the most serene setting with lush, tropical gardens. It was truly breathtaking.”

The group left Lisbon and headed to Tomar, which is the home of Portugal’s historical jewels, the Templar Castle, and Convent of Christ — a UNESCO World Heritage Site.  

“We explored the octagonal Templar’s Rotunda and were left to imagine the day-to-day life of a warrior monk,” said Johansen. “Our next stop was Porto, which was a 2½-hour drive through the wild pine tree forests.”

Johansen explained that Porto is the second-largest city In Portugal, but rich in culture and UNESCO sites such as the Sao Bento Railway Station, which opened in 1916, and the Bolsa Palace, known as the Stock Exchange Palace, which is a 19th-century Neoclassical masterpiece. 

“We also enjoyed a Port wine tasting at the Burmester Cellar, and many of us had the most delicious Portuguese Farm to Table dinner experience that evening in Mindelo, hosted and prepared by a local family. This was truly one of the highlights of the trip,” said Johansen. “Such a delicious home-cooked meal lovingly prepared and served by a lawyer husband, his beautiful and brilliant daughter, and the mother-in-law. We had an incredible evening with great hosts, delicious food and wine, such merriment, and stories, ending with a nightcap, our Danish Skal song to thank them, and lots of sincere hugs goodbye.” 

The following day was dedicated to the Minho region, which is the region of green wines and beautiful sites.

“We started our day at the Born Jesus do Monte Sanctuary where we enjoyed lunch overlooking Braga and many of thereligious UNESCO sites,” Johansen continued. “Braga has one of the highest concentrations of churches in Portugal.

“We next set out for the Douro Wine Region for some amazing wine tastings and beautiful scenery as we enjoyed a cruise down the Douro River on the traditional wooden Rabelo boat. We stayed at the Wine House Hotel, some of us in actual large wine vat barrels, which were unique but very challenging to navigate with the space and all our luggage. It was a fun experience, and I’m glad several of us did that, but we don’t need to do that again,” she said emphatically.“We all laughed about the lack of space and climbing over each other as well as our luggage. We had fun there and enjoyed some nightly games of Left Right and Center, gambling for $1 bills. It is a staple on the trips and really fun! We also enjoyed a great cooking class that culminated in a delicious lunch for all of us with traditional Portuguese cuisine. I saw some real potential in our group for ‘cookers!’ We made petiscos, or Portuguese tapas.”

The travelers then left Portugal and headed towards Spain and the famous Rioja Wine Region, tasting wines at the beautiful San Fermin Winery nestled in the center of the Basque country.

“We stayed in the ancient city of Salamanca, which is over 2,000 years old, rich in history and its sandstone architecture. We also toured Pamplona, the capital of the Navarre province and home to the Running of the Bulls,” Johansen said. “It was fascinating, and we were privileged to visit a bullfighter’s private home museum for an incredible tour and talk about bullfighting traditions and controversies, followed by wine tasting and tapas.”

From there it was to the last leg of the trip.

“We finished our tour with three nights in the beautiful San Sebastian, a coastal city that runs along the Bay of Biscay,” said Johansen. “It was stunning, filled with beautiful sites and beachside activities, shopping, and cultural artifacts. This glimmering Spanish coastline is where you can partake in the historical religious pilgrimage called the Camino de Santiago, which is over 500 miles long across France from St. Jean de Port to Santiago de Compostela, Spain. 

“A dozen of us walked over 8 kilometers along part of the pilgrimage trail called the ‘Camino of Saint James.’ We were told it was a flat walk with breathtaking views. The views were indeed exquisite, but the trail was far from flat. It was steep hills with slippery crushed shell to walk on, but we all survived, ending up in the quaint little villages of Zumaia and Getaria for lunch, beer, and ‘Green’ wine!  It was an amazing adventure. Two of my clients stayed and hiked for another eight days along the trail, finishing, and getting a beautiful signed map certificate. It was quite an accomplishment because they hiked almost 25 miles every day! Congratulations to Carla and Jim Colton, our travel‘Super Heroes.’

“Our last adventure was to visit the Basque town of Bilbao and the world-renowned Guggenheim Museum. It is an amazing museum of contemporary design, and the old town of Bilbao is full of historic old churches, festive markets, and large Spanish squares with lots of activity. It was a very fitting end to our incredible journey titled ‘Flavors of Portugal and Spain.’”

The group returned home with the memories of a wonderful trip.

“We arrived home safely and happy to be home in one of the most incredible places to live. As much as we all travel, we are always so happy to come home to this fabulous Valley we all love,” said Johansen.

Johansen stated that her commission from this trip was gifted to the Solvang Lutheran Church, Solvang Senior Center, and Jubilee House in Nicaragua for 120 “at-risk youth” to have computer and life-skill lessons to give them a hand up out of the poverty in which they live.

Future trips available are September 2025 to South America, Chile, Argentina, and Uruguay for the day, and ending at Iguassu Falls, listed as one of the Seven Wonders of the World, for three nights. There is also a February 2026 trip to Thailand and Cambodia. Space is still available.

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